Lord Austin

12/4 Specifications

My 12/4 Saloon

My 12/4 Open Road Tourer

Other 12/4s

Veteran Austins

Austin Twenty

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Hints and tips

If you have any handy tips please submit them to me so we may all share in our experiences with the 12/4 or the 20

The following articles have been kindly supplied by Tom Stapledon of the UK so that we may all benefit from his experiences

Clutch overhaul

Front brake replacement

Pressure plate overhaul

Adjusting the steering box

If you are going to attempt a gearbox overhaul I have an excellent article that I can send you. just contact me

( I do not have permission to make it public.Probably could, but I dont know how to contact the author)




1) When doing a clutch job on the 12/4 rivet the linings onto the friction plate instead of the flywheel, this makes for a much smoother clutch

2) There is a modern throwout bearing being made in NZ priced at $nz195 plus freight. I have one in the Open Road and it is really good .If you are interested, email me & I will pass it on

3) Rover 820 fan belt will go on the 12/4 motor, just be careful because there appears to be slight differences in the diameter of the 12/4 fan hub

4) Keep an eye on the joint between the block & crankcase on the drivers side, any oil leaks here could indicate that the main bearing caps are not tight. It allows the through bolts to lift enough to leak oil up the stems

5) The flywheel on my open road has been lightened to 9 KGs, very satisfactory. Gear changes are a much easier & no loss of power on the hills

see photos

Timing the motor

How do I do it?

Well its really quite simple, firstly you must have a priming cup on No1 cylinder

1) Open the priming cup on No1 and turn the motor with the crank handle until compression starts to hiss out, you now know that the piston is coming up to the top on the compression stroke, when the crank handle is at either 12 oclock or 6 oclock ( depending where you put the crank handle in.) stop cranking and you now know that you are at TDC. Now measure from the 12 oclock position on the waterpump vernier a distance of 8.75mm towards the motor (backwards), put a small mark there and now turn the motor forwards by hand so that this mark is at 12 o'clock

What you have done so far is time the motor off the flywheel so that you are 2 and 1/4 inches before TDC which is where it is supposed to fire

2) The next part is to set the mag up so that it just about to fire on No1 lead

3) Now marry the two together using the rubber vernier block This is sufficient to get the motor running..... now comes the final adjustment

4) Put a modern timing light on it and adjust the vernier on the mag ( by undoing it and turning it) until the mark on the vernier on the motor side is back to 12 o'clock

Provided that you have been careful to measure the 8.75mm your motor is perfectly timed

Now put a mark right across the whole coupling block so that if you lose your timing for any reason you can easily pick it up again



6)Dont toss out worn kingpins, they can be ground down & undersize bushes fitted and hand reamed. On my sedan, one side has been ground 10th and the other 8th















 You buy a car, but you invest in an AUSTIN...You buy a car but you invest in an AUSTIN... You buy a car but you invest in an AUSTIN